Cezanne’s Provence
What do you imagine when you read: the warm sun in a deep blue sky, a sea of lavender abuzz with bees and butterflies, a bustling market overflowing with vegetables so perfect they look like a still life painting? Provence, of course!
One of the most recognized landscapes in the world, Provence has hosted countless visitors, authors and artists alike. In fact, it’s easy to follow in the footsteps of artists like Van Gogh, Picasso and Cezanne and experience a region that inspired these famous impressionists to create their beloved masterpieces.
Provence covers quite a vast region. With a car, you could spend months exploring the various villages, mountains, valleys and even coastlines stretching from Marseille to the edge of the Cevennes. However, it’s quite easy to link several of the best cities by train. To follow an art-themed itinerary, begin in Avignon, a city made famous by a song about its medieval bridge and a vast Gothic papal palace built in the 14th century and now a beloved UNESCO heritage site. Avignon can be reached easily by train and is a major travel hub in the South of France.
Don’t miss the opportunity to explore the narrow, winding stress of the ancient walled city. There are many local shops, artisans and shaded bistros to enjoy a long afternoon. There’s also the Musée Angladon which holds a small but important collection of rare impressionist art. Avignon has also become a hub for small and unusual live performances, now hosting Europe’s largest theatre festival each July.
The second stop in this artists’ itinerary is Arles. Arles can be reached in less than 20 minutes by train from Avignon. It’s so close but feels like a world apart. This is technically still Provence but is the capital city of the Camargue, a region environmentally and culturally unique to not only France but the world. (See our special blog post about the Camargue.) Arles is also an ancient city and retains a dense collection of Roman heritage, like an intact amphitheater which is a UNESCO site. It is still possible to see a musical or theatre performance there!
Of course Arles was made famous too by one special painting, Cafe Terrace at Night by Van Gogh. There is a cafe there which claims to be the very same as depicted in the painting…it makes for a great place to grab a cold drink and take a souvenir photograph! Don’t miss the Foundation Vincent Van Gogh to learn more about the artist’s time spent in this inspiring city.
Pablo Picasso also loved Arles. In fact, he donated many of his works to the Musée Réattu, which is a must-visit. He was addicted to bullfighting, a special form of which can still be attended today in the Roman Amphitheatre. La Course Camarguaise requires highly skilled and often acrobatic athletes to pull ribbons from the horns of charging bulls…quite a feat! In this event, the bulls are not harmed. In fact, certain bulls have quite the fan club! There are two important fairs held in April and September showcasing the region’s bullfighting heritage.
Last but not least along this artist-inspired itinerary is the charming Aix-en-Provence, the city of a thousand fountains. From Arles, the train takes two hours and makes a quick stop in Marseille. The quickest way to get your bearings is to follow the popular “fountain walk” to see some of the most famous: the Rotonde, Four Dolphins and Fontaine Mousse. Aix is becoming well-known as a culinary gem, from Michelin stars to cuisine from around the world. It’s a great place to do some shopping for local art, handicrafts, olive oil, table linens and fragrances.
Aix as it’s called by the locals, is a lively city thanks to a small university and its popularity as an important market town in the region. Every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday morning along the city’s most famous boulevard, the Cours Mirabeau, vendors display their wares for eager shoppers. This is what French market dreams are made of: braids of aromatic garlic, jars of golden honey, bouquets of deep purple lavender and an array of vibrant tomatoes. By noon, the market slowly vanishes to make way for lunchtime crowds. In the evening, the streets and squares are finally cooling from the heat of the day. Do as the locals do and settle into a sidewalk table for a drink and some people-watching.
Aix is also home to Cézanne’s studio, which is a must-visit for any art lover. The studio is located an easy walk from the center of town and guided tours are offered in French and English. You can continue on the well-marked trail to see Cézanne’s childhood residence and for those up for a nice hike into the countryside, explore Sainte-Victoire, the white limestone mountain that inspired many of his works.
From Aix, you can take the TGV to other major cities and airports in France. Or return to Marseille for a few extra days of exploring France’s oldest city and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on Earth. Whether you hope to follow in the footsteps of your favorite artists or simply wish to indulge in the bounty of this beautiful region, we can help you create the perfect Provence getaway!