Camargue: France’s Cowboy Culture
The Camargue is an often overlooked part of Provence. While it may lack endless fields of lavender or the summer sound of cigales, it’s a region full of charm and the home to France’s own unique cowboy culture. In this curious marshland made by the marriage of the Mediterranean and the Rhone river, one can find a treasure load of history, tradition and one-of-a-kind flavor.

Here, living in semi-feral herds, you’ll discover two breeds of indigenous livestock: spirited white horses and small, feisty black cattle. Both are prized for their ability to thrive on salty marsh grasses, the only natural forage found in the Camargue. In addition, salt has been harvested since ancient times and more recently, rice and wine (notably rosé) have become ingredients of protected origin.

No trip to the Camargue would be complete without a visit to see its most (in)famous residents. The Ornithological Park of Pont de Gau is an important bird sanctuary for many species, including a large and boisterous flock of pink flamingos. It’s open year round. If you have never heard the cacophony of hundreds of squawking birds…prepare to be impressed and delighted!

The Camargue is home to a unique event called Course Camarguais or Bull’s Race. These small, nimble animals are respected, pampered and retired with honors after an illustrious career. They are not used in mortal events like Spanish bullfighting. Instead, athletes engage the bulls in a taunting chase while they try to pluck ribbons from their backs. One of the best places to view this is in Arles, also a great place to start your Camargue itinerary. (See our blog about Arles for more travel inspiration).

Aigues-Mortes is a surprisingly well-preserved, walled city and defensive port built by King Louis IX. It gets its name from the marsh surrounding it. For the adventurous, it’s possible to walk the entire length of the city’s ramparts…all 1,600 meters of them! Otherwise, stroll along the white washed houses, typical of the region. Visit numerous artisans’ shops, then pause for a cold drink in one of the stone squares that turn into a burnished gold in the setting sun.

Aigues-Mortes can be reached by taking the Camargue Line train from the city of Nimes, itself reachable from Arles by train (1 hour 20 minutes). You may even wish to stay a day in Nimes, another lovely city with exceptional Roman heritage, including the Arena of Nimes, which still hosts concerts and events throughout the year.

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is another lovely town in Camargue to explore. There’s a bus service or direct train from Arles, both taking less than an hour. It has been well-loved by artists throughout the ages for the particular quality of light and represented several times in Van Gogh’s paintings. There is a walking tour highlighting Van Gogh’s life and work there. Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is a lively place year-round. In fact, the week between Christmas and New Year’s Day are some of the best days to see festivals and traditional events involving Camarguais horses and bulls and the Guardiens who care for the herds. In May, over 10,000 Romani people gather here for a traditional festival called Sara-la-Noire. It offers a rare glimpse into a typically private culture.

From marsh safaris to boat cruises, riding a famous white horse on the beach or visiting a traditional bull ranch, wine tasting, wildlife viewing or hiking along hundreds of marked trails…the Camargue is a truly unique year-round destination. We’d love to help you discover this hidden gem of Provence!